Ilam
The estate of Hilum (Ilam), pronounced ‘eye-lamb’ was given to the Benedictine Abbey of Burton-on-Trent in 1004, but it was not until 1546 that the first hall was built at Ilam for John Port in whose family the estate stayed for 300 years before being bought in 1821 by Jesse Watts-Russell who was a rich shipping magnate. He transformed Ilam to the little village we see today with a hall built in Tudor Gothic style and an adjacent estate village to a Swiss design with picture postcard cottages, each having overhanging roofs.
The battlemented towers and ornamental chimneys of Ilam Hall are similar in design to Alton Towers as it is believed that the same architect was involved with both buildings.
In the 1930’s part of Ilam Hall was demolished, the remainder being acquired in 1938 by the Youth Hostel Association who still occupy the recently refurbished hall. However, ownership of Ilam Hall and its buildings together with 158 acres of South Peak Estate were made over to the National Trust who operate a gift shop, information room, toilets and café from outbuildings to the rear as well as a car park, camp site and field study centre for groups and educational pursuits. The hall and grounds are now known as Ilam Park.
Nestling beside the River Manifold, a massive reef knoll known as Bunster Hill separates Ilam from the River Dove which forms the county boundary between Staffordshire and Derbyshire.
Ilam church, dedicated to the Holy Cross, is Saxon in origin but was rebuilt in 1884. It is still possible to find the remains of a Saxon doorway and font which has carved figures and animals around it.
The South Chapel of Ilam church was built in 1618 and contains the tomb of St Bertram who was a holy hermit and lived in the woods on the other side of the river. Pilgrims are said to have travelled here from far and wide to lie on top of and crawl through the side of this 13th century shrine to his memory in the hope of a cure for their illnesses. The legend of St Bertram states that he was a Mercian Prince who lived sometime around the 6th-8th century and married an Irish princess. Whilst travelling through the area his wife began to give birth. Bertram left her alone in the woods and went in search of help only to discover on his return that both his wife and newly born child had been eaten by wolves. Bertram is said to have been distraught by his loss and remained here as a holy hermit, devoting his time to healing the sick and converting them to Christianity.
Above the entrance to the chapel are two virgin crants or maidens garlands which signified the burial of a girl or unmarried woman in the parish. Shakespeare spoke of them in his funeral scene of Ophelia in Hamlet. These are rare survivors found in only a handful of Peak District churches including Ilam, Matlock and Ashford.
The octagonal Chantry Chapel constructed as a Victorian extension to Ilam church is an elaborate masterpiece, named after the sculptor whose monument of David Pike Watts on his deathbed is contained within. I
In the churchyard of Ilam church are two Saxon cross shafts, the taller of which dates from the Viking period around 900 AD.
In the centre of Ilam beside the river bridge is a cross erected in 1840 by Jesse Watts-Russell to the memory of his beloved wife Mary.
There are many walks leading from Ilam Hall, either visiting the stepping stones at Dovedale a mile or so away, or heading for the hills around Rushley and Casterne. However, one of the best walks is along a riverside path beneath Ilam Hall which is known as Paradise Walk. Here you can see the boil holes where the ‘disappearing River Manifold’ emerges from its subterranean course of approximately 4 miles from Wetton Mill. See also the Battle Stone contained within a walled enclosure. Named after the conflict hereabouts between Danes and Saxons, the cross shaft probably dates back to the 11th century and was discovered during building works taking place in 1840 in the foundations of a cottage.
Casterne Hall is situated about two miles to the north of Ilam and located high on the side of the hill approaching Stanshope. Appearing like a miniature Georgian dolls house, Casterne is steeped in history and hides a wealth of early architecture and unusual features including the remains of a Roman cellar, whilst the rear of the building is thought to contain a Medieval archway. Occupying a secluded position, Casterne stands on the site of an earlier religious building which belonged to Burton Abbey. It is though the land hereabouts was given to the Abbey around 1000AD by a powerful Saxon warlord named Wulfric Spott as an act of penance following the slaughter of Danes in a raid. A few years ago Casterne featured in an episode of Agatha Christi’s Pierrot.
On the opposite bank of the river and north-west of Ilam are the remains of Throwley Hall. Now in a ruinous state, Throwley Hall was a large mansion belonging to the Meverell family. It was built in 1603 by Simon Meverell who was a Constable of England. His ancestor Sir Sampson Meverell has a tomb at Tideswell Church in Derbyshire, whilst Robert Meverell is buried at Ilam. In 1625 his daughter Elizabeth, who was the last in the line, married Lord Oliver Cromwell.
The Dovedale Sheepdog Trials around Ilam are held each year in August. They started way back in 1892 and are thought to be the oldest in England. A fell race of almost 5 miles around Bunster Hill and Thorpe Cloud named the Dovedale Dash takes place in November.
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