The Churnet Valley Railway (CVR)

It is hard to see how anyone could not be totally enchanted by a trip along this wonderful steam railway that runs for ten miles through the beautiful Churnet Valley, just to the South of Leek.  Plan to make a complete day of it and you can combine steam trains, short country walks, a nature reserve and a fine old pub in a truly idyllic setting. 


    

The railway was part of the Staffordshire network that fell victim to Dr. Beeching’s axe (boo!) in the late 1960’s.  Parts of the line still carried freight into the 1980’s, so there are still just enough traces of old industry lying around to give the line the atmosphere of “the genuine article”.  But mostly, this is a delightful scenic ride and step-back-in-time experience, that will make you feel like an extra in “The Railway Children”.

You can start your day either at Froghall / Kingsley to the South, or at Cheddleton to the North, with its impressive “grade 2” listed building.  Cheddleton is the CVR’s HQ and home to a small museum dedicated to the history of the line.  There is a pretty little picnic island here, in the middle of the River Churnet, while the award-winning and child-friendly Boat Inn is only a short walk away, serving excellent food and fine ales.  The CVR’s new catering facility at Cheddleton is due to open very soon – check for latest details by telephone.  Froghall has The Railway Inn (about to re-open under new management), just by the entrance to the station yard and the station itself has a souvenir shop and a display of interesting old artefacts in the waiting room.   As with everything on this line, it is all done with great taste and sensitivity.

To get the best out of your day, our advice is to plan ahead, equipped with some knowledge of the CVR timetable, which can be found on their website.  This way you can leave enough time for pub visits, walks, etc., and not feel rushed or constricted.  (Above all, this should be a relaxing experience!) You may want to ring, in any case, and check with staff as to which trains are running on the day of your visit, as some days there is a “classic” diesel service (which may be of interest to some enthusiasts, but lacks the romance of steam).

Even before you climb aboard you will no doubt have encountered one of the numerous and very friendly volunteer staff who run the CVR.  All seemed armed with both the knowledge and enthusiasm for the whole project which is typical of steam railway lines.  Once you have climbed aboard, slammed the door and are rattling along, the fun really begins and though there are faded signs warning one not to, who can resist sticking their head out of the window for a minute or two? – A simple pleasure denied us in the modern age.  But it is the scenery that steals the show; wooded hillsides and drystone-walled pastures on the one hand, the charming river gurgling along on the other.  It is hard to decide which way to look. On the day we visited, the train was held up for some minutes while the driver and fireman got out to chase sheep from the line, cheered on by the passengers.

Alighting at Consall, roughly halfway along the line, there is a magical walk to the West into a nature reserve, with meres, woods and a highly informative visitors’ centre – again staffed by knowledgeable people only too happy to share their enthusiasm for the place.  This is about a twenty minute walk from Consall station, uphill, but you will want to leave much longer for a truly good explore.  Back down in the valley, a little further upstream, is the Black Lion pub, over-looking the river and canal.  Having no proper vehicular access, this is as peaceful a spot for a drink or lunch as it is possible to imagine.  Built of proper old Staffordshire brick, the pub is in perfect keeping with the ambience of the railway and serves a good selection of real ales, alongside home-cooked food.  Quite a few visitors arrive here by boat, adding to the laid-back feel of the place.

Keener walkers may want to use the railway as part of a major expedition in the area.  A quick glance at the OS map will confirm the possibilities of walking up to the picturesque villages of Ipstones and Foxt, both of which have village pubs – The Old Red Lion at Ipstones is an impressive and historic inn with bags of character, offering accommodation, fine food and drink, while the Fox and Goose at Foxt prides itself as a “gastro-pub”.  A preserved poster from the 1940’s is displayed on the platform at Froghall, advertising the line (to hikers from Manchester stations) as a means of accessing the Staffordshire Moorlands; it was once possible to take a train direct to the Churnet Valley from the centre of the city. Those were the days…

Currently, the best starting point for your day is probably at Froghall Station, which can be found on the A52, ten miles East of Stoke-on-Trent and about the same West from Ashbourne.

The CVR has ambitions to expand and is constantly laying on special events, from 1940’s weekends, Ghost Trains, Wine and Dine Experiences, to Santa Steam Specials, so the best advice is to either visit their website or give them a call on 01538 750755.

Simon Corble